舒舒

服饰

舒舒索托语ShweshweIPA/ˈʃwɛʃwɛ/[1])是一种广泛用于南部非洲传统服装的印花染色织物[2][3]。舒舒最初仅染成靛蓝,现可加工制成多种颜色和印花设计,以其复杂的几何图案为特色[4][5][6]。出于其受欢迎程度,舒舒被称为南非的牛仔布[6]花呢格布[7]

穿着棕色舒舒连衣裙的巴索托人妇女

名称

 
身穿传统靛蓝色舒舒围裙的科萨人妇女
 
头戴靛蓝色舒舒头巾的科萨人妇女(图右)

舒舒的当地语言名称“Shweshwe”源自莱索托国王莫舒舒一世(“Moshoeshoe”又拼作“Moshweshwe”)与织品的关联[8][9]。莫舒舒一世在1840年代获法国传教士赠予此种织品,随后将其普及[8][10][11]

19世纪德国和瑞士定居者进口蓝印花(Blaudruck)织品以制作其服装后,舒舒在南非与巴索托文化中的地位获进一步巩固,舒舒亦由此在塞索托语中被称作“塞杰雷马内”(Sejeremane)或“塞舒舒”(Seshoeshoe)、在科萨语中被称作“泰兰塔拉”(Terantala,源自南非语中指珠鸡的词语“Tarentaal[10])与“乌贾马尼”(Ujamani)。[6][8][11][12][13]

用途

舒舒传统上用于制作连衣裙、短裙、围裙和围裹式服装。传统上,新婚科萨人妇女(称作“Makoti”)与已婚巴索托人妇女会穿舒舒[9][10][14][15]。科萨人妇女也将舒舒融入其传统的赭色毛毯服装中[7][16]。除传统服装外,舒舒亦为当代南非时尚设计所用,并适用于各族男女[5][9][12],且也可用于制作配饰与室内装潢[17]。舒舒在美国也被用于绗缝英语Quilting织品[4][18]

生产

 
巧克力棕色舒舒

舒舒以在纯棉印花布英语Calico上采排酸与滚筒印花技术制造[4][5][9][19]。舒舒的印刷宽度为90厘米,采通体图案与并排印刷的A字形裙板图案样式。舒舒织料可制成各种颜色,包括原始的靛蓝、巧克力棕色与红色,并有多种图案设计,包括花卉、条纹与菱形、方形、圆形等几何图案[7][11]。异光彩斑点效果(Picotage)可用于在舒舒上印刷复杂的图案。异光彩斑点效果是一种复杂与高成本而鲜为当代织料生产商所使用的针扎织料印刷技术(使用现代织料印刷技术可达到同样的设计效果)[4]

舒舒织料现已有商标认证。舒舒织料在以前经欧洲进口到南部非洲,而自1982年以来则一直由达伽马纺织公司(Da Gama Textiles)在东开普省威廉王城外的兹韦利特沙英语Zwelitsha英语Township (South Africa)生产[8][9][10][11]。1992年,达伽马收购曼彻斯特云杉制造有限公司(Spruce Manufacturing Co. Ltd)所生产的最受欢迎的三猫织料的独家经营权,并将原版雕刻铜辊运往南非[16][20]。达伽马使用从津巴布韦进口、在东开普省当地种植的棉花制作舒舒[14][18]

包括达伽马舒舒生产线在内的南非当地纺织业受来自中国大陆巴基斯坦进口的廉价劣质冒牌货的竞争威胁[9][11][14][21]。舒舒真品可经由手感、气味、味道、声音、染色纯度与织料反面的商标标识,小于平均90厘米的织料宽度,以及从传统淀粉洗掉的新织料的挺度予以识别[4][5][6][12]。截至2013年11月,达伽马的舒舒产量已降至每年500万米[6]

流行文化

吉尔·史葛英语Jill Scott在电视剧《第一女子侦探社英语The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency (TV series)》中饰演主角姆玛·普蕾舍丝·拉莫茨韦(Mma Precious Ramotswe),并身穿由舒舒制成的服装进行拍摄。[2][22]

参见

参考资料

  1. ^ shwe-shwe or shweshwe. Collins English Dictionary. [2014-01-30]. (原始内容存档于2021-05-01). 
  2. ^ 2.0 2.1 Rochlin, Margy. Jo Katsaras: 'No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency'. New York Times. 2009-06-05. (原始内容存档于2014-01-24). But Ms. Katsaras always keeps the series's central character, the private investigator Precious Ramotswe (Jill Scott, above), the focus of attention with colorful dresses and head scarves made of shweshwe, the traditional South African fabric known for its pulsating motifs. 
  3. ^ Grange, Helen. Stylish isishweshwe? Check. The Star. 2011-05-04 [2014-01-24]. (原始内容存档于2014-01-24). 
  4. ^ 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 deVillemarette, Cynthia. Shweshwe: A True Blue Passion. The Country Register of Tennessee & Kentucky. July–August 2010. The designs are created using a discharge process, unlike modern printed fabrics where color is added to the surface. With Shweshwe, the cotton cloth is first entirely dyed, thoroughly penetrating the fiber. Then, the cloth is passed through copper design rollers, which emit a mild acid solution, removing color with pinpoint accuracy. One of the characteristics of Shweshwe is the intense use of picotage, tiny pin dots that create not only the designs, but also texture and depth. It is because of the difficulty and expense in creating these designs that they fell out of favor with American and European manufacturers, who chose instead to move to printing processes. Da Gama Textiles of South Africa is the only known manufacturer of fabrics still using the discharge process ... The reverse side of the fabric will be a solid color because it was dyed. Da Gama also prints its seal on the back to help you identify it. 
  5. ^ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 Rovine, Victoria L. Dudley, Sandra H. , 编. Handmade textiles: global markets and authenticity. Oxon: Routledge. 2012: 276–277 [2022-05-16]. ISBN 9781135721473. (原始内容存档于2022-03-17). 
  6. ^ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 Davie, Lucille. Shweshwe, the denim of South Africa. Media Club South Africa. 2013-11-18 [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档于2014-01-20). 
  7. ^ 7.0 7.1 7.2 A stylish ode to Mama Afrika. The Star. 2011-09-27 [2014-01-21]. (原始内容存档于2011-12-30). 
  8. ^ 8.0 8.1 8.2 8.3 Kuper, Jeremy. London shows material interest in Africa's old clothes. Mail & Guardian. 2013-04-19 [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档于2013-05-25). 
  9. ^ 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4 9.5 Holmes, Thalia. The fabric of society needs underpinning. Mail & Guardian. 2013-11-22 [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档于2014-01-20). 
  10. ^ 10.0 10.1 10.2 10.3 Futhwa, Fezekile. Setho: Afrikan Thought and Belief System. Nalane ka Fezekile Futhwa. 2012: 107–115 [2022-05-16]. ISBN 9780620503952. (原始内容存档于2022-05-02). 
  11. ^ 11.0 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 Joyce, Liam. Swish shweshwe!. Daily News. 2013-10-14 [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档于2013-11-05). 
  12. ^ 12.0 12.1 12.2 The Isishweshwe Story: Material Women?. Iziko Museums. 2013-02-23 [2014-01-22]. (原始内容存档于2013-03-29). 
  13. ^ Pheto-Moeti, B; Riekert, D.M.; Pelser, A.J. Perceptions of Seshoeshoe fabric, naming and meanings of motifs on fabric. Journal of Consumer Sciences. 2017,. 2 (2017): 24–39 [2022-05-16]. (原始内容存档于2022-05-16) –通过African Journals Online. 
  14. ^ 14.0 14.1 14.2 Miti, Siya. Textile sector threat to fabric of society. Daily Dispatch. 2013-05-11 [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档于2013-12-17). 
  15. ^ Event – Material women? The shweshwe story. Iziko Museums. [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档于2014-01-20). 
  16. ^ 16.0 16.1 Bryant, Judy. Transplanted Culture Through Trade (PDF). Cape Crafts & Design Institute. June 2012: 21–22 [2014-01-20]. (原始内容存档 (PDF)于2014-01-21). 
  17. ^ Lewis, Esther. IsiShweshwe: cut from a different cloth. Cape Argus. 2013-03-28 [2014-01-22]. (原始内容存档于2014-02-02). 
  18. ^ 18.0 18.1 Fulton, Claire. Cottoning on to Shweshwe chic. South Africa.info. 2006-11-23 [2014-01-23]. (原始内容存档于2012-01-14). 
  19. ^ Home Sewing. Da Gama Textiles. [2014-01-22]. (原始内容存档于2016-03-05). Some of our recognised brands include ... The Original Shweshwe ethnic printed 3 CATS, 3 LEOPARDS, TOTO and FANCY PRINTS, which are acid discharge prints on cotton calico. 
  20. ^ History of Shweshwe. Da Gama Textiles. [2014-01-21]. (原始内容存档于2013-08-09). 
  21. ^ Sparg, Linda. Fabric firm wins with a focus on local flair. Business Report. 2012-01-15 [2014-01-21]. (原始内容存档于2014-01-21). 
  22. ^ Barbieri, Annalisa. All shapes and sizes. New Statesman. 2008-04-03 [2014-01-24]. (原始内容存档于2008-12-04). 

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